Ukunakekelwa kwelanga, futhi ikakhulukazi ekuvikelweni kwelanga, kungenye yeizingxenye ezikhula ngokushesha kakhulu zemakethe yokunakekelwa komuntu.Futhi, ukuvikelwa kwe-UV manje sekufakwa kwimikhiqizo eminingi yezimonyo nsuku zonke (ngokwesibonelo, imikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba kobuso kanye nezimonyo zokuhlobisa), njengoba abathengi bazimisele ngokwengeziwe ukuthi isidingo sokuzivikela elangeni.
I-Sun Care Carem Afmulator yanamuhlakumele azuze i-SPF ephezulu kanye namazinga wokuvikela ama-UVA ayinselele, ngenkathi futhi nokwenza imikhiqizo ihle ngokwanele ukukhuthaza ukuhambisana nomthengi, futhi kubiza kakhulu ngokwanele ukuba kube nokubiza ngezikhathi ezinzima zezomnotho.
Ukusebenza kahle nobuhle empeleni kuncike komunye nomunye; Khulisa ukusebenza kahle kwama-actives asetshenzisiwe kunika amandla imikhiqizo ephezulu ye-SPF ukuthi yenziwe ngamazinga amancane ezihlungi ze-UV. Lokhu kuvumela i-formulator inkululeko enkulu yokwenza kahle izikhumba. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, umkhiqizo omuhle wobukhosi obukhuthaza abathengi ukuthi basebenzise imikhiqizo eminingi ngakho-ke basondele ku-Spf enelebula.
Izimfanelo Zokusebenza okufanele zicatshangelwe lapho ukhetha izihlungi ze-UV zokuqamba izimonyo
• Ukuphepha kweqembu elihlose umsebenzi-umsebenzisi- Zonke izihlungi ze-UV zihlolwe kakhulu ukuze ziqinisekise ukuthi ziphephile ngokwemvelo ngohlelo lokusebenza lwe-topical; Kodwa-ke abanye abantu ababucayi bangaba nokusabela komzimba ezinhlotsheni ezithile zezihlungi ze-UV.
• Ukusebenza ngempumelelo kwe-SPF- Lokhu kuncike kwi-wavelength yesilinganiso esiphezulu, ubukhulu bokumunca, nobubanzi bokubukeka kokumunca.
• Ukusebenza ngokuvikelwa kwe-spectrum / UVA ukuvikela- Izakhi zesikrini sanamuhla zeSannscreen ziyadingeka ukuze zihlangabezane namazinga athile okuvikela i-UVA, kepha okuvame ukungaqondakali ukuthi ukuvikeleka kwe-UVA nakho kwenza umnikelo kwi-SPF.
• Ithonya ekumeni kwesikhumba- Izihlungi ze-UV ezahlukahlukene zinemiphumela ehlukile ekumeni kwesikhumba; Isibonelo, ezinye izihlungi ze-UV eziwuketshezi zingazizwa "zinamathele" noma "esindayo" esikhunjeni, ngenkathi izihlungi ezingenamanzi zinikela ngesikhumba omile.
• Ukubukeka esikhunjeni- Ukuhlunga kwe-inorganic kanye nezinhlayiya eziphilayo kungadala ukuthobeka esikhunjeni lapho kusetshenziswa ekugxilisweni okuphezulu; Lokhu kuvame ukungathandeki, kepha kwezinye izinhlelo zokusebenza (isib. Baby Sun ukunakekelwa) kungabonakala njengenzuzo.
• Ukusizakala- Ukuhlunga okuningana kwe-organic UV ukubola ekuchayweni ku-UV, ngaleyo ndlela kunciphise ukusebenza kwawo ukusebenza; Kepha ezinye izihlungi zingasiza ekulimazeleni lezi "zithombe ze-photo-labsi" futhi zinciphise noma zivikele ukubola.
• Ukumelana namanzi- Ukufakwa kokuhlunga okususelwa emanzini asuselwa kumanzi eceleni kwawo-uwoyela okusekelwe ku-oyili kuvame ukunikeza amandla amakhulu kwi-SPF, kepha kungenza kube nzima ngokwengeziwe ukufezekisa ukumelana amanzi.
»Buka zonke izithako ze-Sun Care Sun Deating Sun Deating & Abahlinzeki ku-COSMETICS database
I-UV Filter Chemplies
Ama-activen sunscreen ngokuvamile ahlukaniswa njenge-organic sunscreens noma ama-sunscreens we-inorganic. I-Organic Sunscreens imunca ngamandla kuma-wavelength athile futhi esobala ekukhanyiseni okubonakalayo. I-Inorganic Sunscreens isebenza ngokukhombisa noma ukusakaza imisebe ye-UV.
Ake sifunde ngabo ngokujulile:
I-Organic Sunscreens
Ama-Sunscreens a-Organic ayaziwa nangokuthiamakhemikhali amakhemikhali. Lokhu kuqukethe ama-molecule we-organic (asuselwe yi-carbon) asebenza njengama-sunscreens ngokuthola imisebe ye-UV futhi uyiguqulele ukuze ashise amandla.
Amandla we-Organic Sunscreens namandla
| Amandla | Ubuthakathaka |
| Ubuhle be-cosmetic - izihlungi ze-organic eziningi, ukuba ngama-liquids noma ama-solids ancibilikile, ungashiyi okusanhlamvu okubonakalayo endaweni yesikhumba ngemuva kohlelo lokusebenza kusuka ku-application | I-Marlow Spectrum - Abaningi bavikela kuphela ububanzi obuncane be-wavewth |
| Izinto zendabuko ziqondwa kahle ngamakhemikhali | "Ama-Cocktails" adingekayo kwi-SPF ephezulu |
| Ukusebenza kahle kokugxila okuphansi | Ezinye izinhlobo eziqinile kungaba nzima ukuncibilikisa futhi zilondoloze isixazululo |
| Imibuzo ngokuphepha, okucasulayo kanye nomthelela wezemvelo | |
| Ezinye izihlungi ze-organic ziyisithombe |
Izicelo ze-Organic Sunscreens
Izihlungi ze-organic zingasetshenziswa kuwo wonke imikhiqizo yokuphepha yelanga / iv kepha kungenzeka ingabi kahle emikhiqizweni yezingane noma isikhumba esibucayi ngenxa yendlela yokusabela komzimba kubantu ababucayi. Azifanele futhi imikhiqizo eyenza izimangalo ze- "zemvelo" noma "eziphilayo" njengoba zinjalo wonke amakhemikhali okwenziwa.
Izihlungi ze-Organic UV: Izinhlobo zamakhemikhali
I-PABA (Para-amino BENZOIC ACACE) EVERIVIVIVITS
• Isibonelo: ethylhexyl dimethyl paba
• Izihlungi ze-UVB
• Akuvamile ukuthi kusetshenziswe kulezi zinsuku ngenxa yezinkinga zokuphepha
Ama-salih
• Izibonelo: I-EthyShexyl Salicylate, Homosalate
• Izihlungi ze-UVB
• Izindleko eziphansi
• ukusebenza okuphansi kuqhathaniswa nezinye izihlungi eziningi
Amaqomuni
• Izibonelo: I-EthylHexyly Methoxycinnance, Iso-Amyl Methoxycinnance, Octocrylene
• Izihlungi ze-UVB ezisebenza kahle kakhulu
• I-Octocrylene yakho iyasiza futhi isiza ekuqiniseni izithombe
IBennzophenones
• Izibonelo: Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4
• Nikeza ukumuncwa kwe-UVB kanye ne-UVA
• Ukusebenza kahle okuphansi kodwa kusiza ukukhulisa i-SPF ngokuhlanganiswa nezinye izihlungi
• IBenzophenone-3 ayivamile ukusetshenziswa eYurophu kulezi zinsuku ngenxa yokukhathazeka ngokuphepha
I-Triazine ne-Triazole Derivatives
• Izibonelo: I-EthylHexyl Triazone, Bis-EthylHexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
• Isebenza kahle kakhulu
• Ezinye izihlungi ze-UVB, ezinye zinikeza ukuvikelwa okubanzi kwe-UVA / UVB
• Ukusizakala okuhle kakhulu
• ebizayo
I-Dibenzeyl Derivatives
• Izibonelo: UButl Methoxydibenzibenzibenzoyllleneselane (BMDM), Diethylamino Hydroxybenzi
• I-UVA esebenza kahle kakhulu
• I-BMDM inokuqina okuhle, kepha i-DHHB ingaphezulu kakhulu
I-Benzimidazole Sulfonic Acid Derivatives
• Izibonelo: Phenylbensidazole sulfonic acid (PBSA), Dirodium Phenyl Dibenqumidazole tetrasulfonate (DPDT)
• Ukuncibilika kwamanzi (lapho kuvinjelwe ngesisekelo esifanele)
• I-PBSA isihlungi se-UVB; I-DPDT isihlungi se-UVA
• Imvamisa bonisa ama-synergies ngezihlungi ezingenawo amafutha lapho zisetshenziswa ngokuhlanganiswa
I-Camphor Derivatives
• Isibonelo: 4-methylbenylidene camphor
• Isihlungi se-UVB
• Akuvamile ukuthi kusetshenziswe kulezi zinsuku ngenxa yezinkinga zokuphepha
Ama-anthranilates
• Isibonelo: I-METHYL ANTRWANLILATE
• Izihlungi ze-UVA
• Ukusebenza kahle okuphansi
• Akuvunyelwe eYurophu
Polysilicone-15
• I-Silicone polymer ngama-chromophores emaketangeni aseceleni
• Isihlungi se-UVB
I-Inorganic Sunscreens
Lawa ma-sunscreens ayaziwa nangokuthi ama-sunnscreens angokomzimba. Lezi ziqukethe izinhlayiya ezingaphakathi ezisebenza njengama-sunscreens ngokuthola futhi zisakaza imisebe ye-UV. I-Inorganic Sunscreens iyatholakala njengabapopayi owomile noma abakwa-pre-stripsesions.
Amandla we-Inorganic Sunscreens nobuthakathaka
| Amandla | Ubuthakathaka |
| Iphephile / ayicasuli | Umbono we-aesthetics ampofu (isikhumba kanye nokumhlophe esikhunjeni) |
| I-Spectrum ebanzi | Ama-Powders angaba nzima ukwakha ngayo |
| I-SPF ephezulu (30+) ingatholakala nge-active esebenzayo (Tio2) | I-Inorganics ibanjwe engxoxweni yeNano |
| I-Disprions kulula ukuyifaka | |
| -Ngathintwa |
Izicelo ze-Inorganic Sunscreens
I-Inorganic Sunscreens ilungele noma yiziphi izinhlelo zokusebenza zokuvikelwa kwe-UV ngaphandle kwezinto ezicacile noma izithombo ze-aerosol. Zilungele kakhulu ukunakekelwa kwelanga kwelanga, imikhiqizo yesikhumba ebucayi, imikhiqizo eyenza izimangalo zemvelo ", kanye nezimonyo zokuhlobisa.
Izinhlobo ze-Inorganic UV zihlungi
Titanium dioxide
• Ngokuyinhloko isihlungi se-UVB, kepha amanye amabanga akhona ahlinzeka ngokuvikelwa okuhle kwe-UVA
• Amabanga ahlukahlukene atholakala ngosayizi ohlukile wezinhlayiya, izimbobo njll.
• Amabanga amaningi awela endaweni yama-nanoparticles
• Amasayizi amancane ezinhlathihla izinhlayiyana akhanya kakhulu esikhunjeni kepha anikeze ukuvikelwa okuncane kwe-UVA; osayizi abakhulu banikeza ukuvikela okuningi kwe-UVA kepha bamhlophe ngokwengeziwe esikhunjeni
Zinc oxide
• Ngokuyinhloko isihlungi se-UVA; Ukusebenza kahle kwe-SPF kwe-TIO2 kune-Tio2, kepha kunikeza ukuvikela okungcono kune-tio2 ku-wavelength ende ye-wavelength "UVA-I" esifundeni
• Amabanga ahlukahlukene atholakala ngosayizi ohlukile wezinhlayiya, izimbobo njll.
• Amabanga amaningi awela endaweni yama-nanoparticles
Ukusebenza / Chemistry Matrix
Ukukala kusuka -5 kuya ku-5:
-5: Umphumela Ophakeme Omubi | 0: Awukho umphumela | +5: Umphumela omuhle kakhulu
(Qaphela: Ngezindleko namhlophe, "umphumela omubi" kusho izindleko noma mhlophe kukhuphukile.)
| Khokhisa | Spf | Uva | Isikhumba Zizwe | Mhlophe | Ukuqina kwesithombe | Nisela | |
| Benzophenone-3 | -2 | +4 | +2 | 0 | 0 | +3 | 0 |
| Benzophenone-4 | -2 | +2 | +2 | 0 | 0 | +3 | 0 |
| I-BIS-ethyzyxyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine | -4 | +5 | +5 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| UButl Methoxy-Dibenzoylmethane | -2 | +2 | +5 | 0 | 0 | -5 | 0 |
| UDiethyamino Hydroxy Benzoyl Hexyl Bexyl | -4 | +1 | +5 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| Diethylhexylyatshana i-triazone | -4 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| I-Dirodium Phenyl Dibezinzimiazole Tetrasulfonate | -4 | +3 | +5 | 0 | 0 | +3 | -2 |
| Ethylhexyl dimethyl paba | -1 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +2 | 0 |
| Ethylhexyl methoxycinnante | -2 | +4 | +1 | -1 | 0 | -3 | +1 |
| Ethylhexyl salicylate | -1 | +1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +2 | 0 |
| Ethylhexyl riazone | -3 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| Homosalate | -1 | +1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +2 | 0 |
| I-Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnate | -3 | +4 | +1 | -1 | 0 | -2 | +1 |
| Menthy anthranilate | -3 | +1 | +2 | 0 | 0 | -1 | 0 |
| I-4-Methylbenylidene Camphor | -3 | +3 | 0 | 0 | 0 | -1 | 0 |
| Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tertramethbutylphetylelol | -5 | +4 | +5 | -1 | -2 | +4 | -1 |
| Octocrylene | -3 | +3 | +1 | -2 | 0 | +5 | 0 |
| Phenylbensidazole sulfonic acid | -2 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +3 | -2 |
| Polysilicone-15 | -4 | +1 | 0 | +1 | 0 | +3 | +2 |
| Tris-biphenyl triazine | -5 | +5 | +3 | -1 | -2 | +3 | -1 |
| Titanium dioxide - Ibanga elisobala | -3 | +5 | +2 | -1 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| Titanium dioxide - Ibanga elibanzi le-spectrum | -3 | +5 | +4 | -2 | -3 | +4 | 0 |
| Zinc oxide | -3 | +2 | +4 | -2 | -1 | +4 | 0 |
Izici ezithinta ukusebenza kwezihlungi ze-UV
Izimfanelo zokusebenza zeTitanium Dioxide ne-zinc oxide ziyehlukahluka ngokuya ngezakhiwo ngazinye zebanga elithile elisetshenzisiwe, isib. I-coating, ifomu lomzimba (i-powder, ukusakazwa okususelwa ku-oyela, ukuhlakazeka okususelwa emanzini).Abasebenzisi kufanele babonisane nabathengisi ngaphambi kokukhetha ibanga elifanele kakhulu ukuze bahlangabezane nezinhloso zabo zokusebenza ohlelweni lwabo.
Ukusebenza kahle kwezihlungi ze-organ-soluble ze-organ UV zithonywa yi-solubility yazo kuma-emollients asetshenziswa ekwakhekeni. Ngokuvamile, ama-polar emollients ama-solvents amahle kakhulu ezihlungi ze-organic.
Ukusebenza kwazo zonke izihlungi ze-UV kuthonywa kakhulu ekuziphatheni kweRheological kokwakheka namandla awo okwenza ifilimu elihambisanayo esikhunjeni. Ukusetshenziswa kwamafomu afanele amafilimu nezithasiselo zembobo zivame ukusiza ukuthuthukisa ukusebenza kwezihlungi.
Inhlanganisela ethokozisayo yezihlungi ze-UV (Synergies)
Kunenhlanganisela eminingi yokuhlunga kwe-UV ekhombisa ama-synergies. Imiphumela emihle kakhulu ye-synergistic imvamisa itholakala ngokuhlanganisa izihlungi ezihambisana ngandlela thile ngandlela thile, ngokwesibonelo: -
• Ukuhlanganisa izihlungi zikawoyela (noma ezihlakazeke kawoyela) ezihlubuke izihlungi zamanzi (noma ezihlakazeke ngamanzi)
• Ukuhlanganisa izihlungi ze-UVA ngezihlungi ze-UVB
• Ukuhlanganisa izihlungi ze-inorganic ngezihlungi ze-organic
Kukhona nenhlanganisela ethile engabeka ezinye izinzuzo, ngokwesibonelo kwaziwa kahle ukuthi i-octocrylene isiza ekuzibaleni izithombe ezithile ezihlunga zezithombe ezinjenge-butyl methoxydibenzibenenmethane.
Kodwa-ke umuntu kumele ahlale ekhumbula impahla yengqondo kule ndawo. Kunamalungelo obunikazi amaningi amboza inhlanganisela ethile yezihlungi ze-UV namakhemithi anokwelule ngaso sonke isikhathi ukuthi ahlole ukuthi inhlanganisela abahlose ukuyisebenzisa ayiphumili noma yimaphi amalungelo obunikazi avela eceleni.
Khetha isihlungi se-UV esifanele sokuqamba kwakho kwezimonyo
Izinyathelo ezilandelayo zizokusiza ukuthi ukhethe izihlungi ze-UV ezilungile zokuqamba kwakho kwezimonyo:
1. Beka izinhloso ezicacile zokusebenza, izakhiwo zobuhle kanye nezimangalo ezihlosiwe zokwakhiwa.
2. Bheka ukuthi yikuphi ukuhlunga okuvunyelwe kwemakethe okuhlosiwe.
3. Uma une-chassis ethile ye-chassis ofisa ukuyisebenzisa, cabanga ukuthi yikuphi ukuhlunga okuzolingana nale classis. Kodwa-ke uma kungenzeka kungcono ukukhetha izihlungi kuqala bese uklama ukwakheka okubazungezile. Lokhu kuyiqiniso ikakhulukazi ngezihlungi ze-Inorganic noma ezihlanganisiwe.
4. Sebenzisa izeluleko ezivela kubahlinzeki kanye / noma amathuluzi wokubikezela njenge-basf sunscreen simulator ukukhomba ukuhlanganiswa okufanelefinyelela i-spf ehlosiwekanye ne-UVA okuhlosiwe.
Le nhlanganisela ingabe isizanywa ekwakhiweni. Izindlela zokuhlola ze-in-vitro kanye ne-UVA zilusizo kulesi sigaba ukukhombisa ukuthi iyiphi inhlanganisela enikeza imiphumela emihle kakhulu ngokusebenza kokusebenza - Imininingwane engaphezulu ngesicelo, ukutolikaUVA / SPF: Ukwenza kahle amaphrothokholi akho wokuhlola
Imiphumela yokuhlolwa, kanye nemiphumela yezinye izivivinyo nokuhlolwa (isib. Ukuqina, ukusebenza ngempumelelo, ukubonwa kwesikhumba), vumela i-formula i-Opterator ukuze ikhethe ukuthuthuka okungcono kakhulu.
Isikhathi sePosi: Jan-03-2021