Ukunakekelwa kwelanga, ikakhulukazi ukuvikelwa kwelanga, kungenye yezindlelaizingxenye ezikhula ngokushesha emakethe yokunakekelwa komuntu siqu.Futhi, ukuvikelwa kwe-UV manje sekufakiwe emikhiqizweni eminingi yezimonyo esetshenziswa nsuku zonke (isibonelo, imikhiqizo yokunakekela isikhumba sobuso kanye nezimonyo zokuhlobisa), njengoba abathengi beqaphela ngokwengeziwe ukuthi isidingo sokuzivikela elangeni asisebenzi nje kuphela eholidini lasebhishi.
Ifomula yokunakekela ilanga yanamuhlakumele afinyelele amazinga aphezulu e-SPF kanye nezindinganiso zokuvikela ze-UVA eziyinselele, ngenkathi futhi yenza imikhiqizo ibe yinhle ngokwanele ukukhuthaza ukuthobela imithetho yabathengi, futhi ibe nezindleko ezingabizi ngokwanele ukuze ikwazi ukuthengeka ezikhathini ezinzima zomnotho.
Ukusebenza kahle kanye nobuhle empeleni kuncike komunye nomunye; ukwandisa ukusebenza kahle kwezinto ezisebenzayo ezisetshenziswayo kwenza imikhiqizo ephezulu ye-SPF ikhiqizwe ngamazinga amancane ezihlungi ze-UV. Lokhu kuvumela i-formulator inkululeko enkulu yokwenza ngcono umuzwa wesikhumba. Ngokuphambene nalokho, ubuhle obuhle bomkhiqizo bukhuthaza abathengi ukuthi basebenzise imikhiqizo eminingi ngakho-ke basondele ku-SPF enelebula.
Izici Zokusebenza Okufanele Uzicabangele Lapho Ukhetha Izihlungi ze-UV Zezinto Zokuhlobisa
• Ukuphepha kweqembu elihlosiwe lomsebenzisi wokugcina- Zonke izihlungi ze-UV zihlolwe kabanzi ukuqinisekisa ukuthi ziphephile ngokwemvelo ukusetshenziswa endaweni ethintekile; noma kunjalo, abantu abathile abazwelayo bangase babe nokusabela kokungezwani nezinhlobo ezithile zezihlungi ze-UV.
• Ukusebenza kahle kwe-SPF- Lokhu kuncike kubude besikhathi sobuningi bokumuncwa, ubukhulu bokumuncwa, kanye nobubanzi be-spectrum yokumuncwa.
• Ukusebenza kahle kokuvikela i-Broad spectrum / UVA- Izinhlobo zesimanje zokuvikela ilanga ziyadingeka ukuze kuhlangatshezwane nezindinganiso ezithile zokuvikela i-UVA, kodwa okungavamile ukuqondwa kahle ukuthi ukuvikela i-UVA nakho kunegalelo ku-SPF.
• Ithonya ekuzizweni kwesikhumba- Izihlungi ze-UV ezahlukene zinemiphumela ehlukene ekuzizweni kwesikhumba; isibonelo ezinye izihlungi ze-UV eziwuketshezi zingazwakala “zinamathela” noma “zisinda” esikhumbeni, kuyilapho izihlungi ezincibilika emanzini zenza isikhumba somile.
• Ukubukeka esikhumbeni- Izihlungi ezingaphili kanye nezinhlayiya eziphilayo zingabangela ukuba mhlophe esikhumbeni uma zisetshenziswa ngamanani aphezulu; lokhu ngokuvamile akufiseleki, kodwa kwezinye izinhlelo zokusebenza (isib. ukunakekelwa kwelanga kwengane) kungabhekwa njengenzuzo.
• Ukuzinza kwesithombe- Izihlungi eziningana ze-UV eziphilayo ziyabola lapho zichayeka ku-UV, ngaleyo ndlela zinciphise ukusebenza kwazo; kodwa ezinye izihlungi zingasiza ekuqiniseni lezi zihlungi "ezine-photo-labile" futhi zinciphise noma zivimbele ukubola.
• Ukumelana namanzi- Ukufakwa kwezihlungi ze-UV ezisekelwe emanzini kanye nezo ezisekelwe kumafutha kuvame ukunikeza amandla amakhulu ku-SPF, kodwa kungenza kube nzima kakhulu ukuvikela amanzi.
» Buka Zonke Izithako Zokunakekelwa Kwelanga Ezitholakala Emakethe Nabahlinzeki Kudathabheyisi Yezimonyo
Amakhemikhali Okuhlunga UV
Ama-sunscreen actives ngokuvamile ahlukaniswa njenge-organic sunscreen noma ama-inorganic sunscreen. Ama-sunscreen e-organic amunca kakhulu kuma-wavelength athile futhi ayabonakala ekukhanyeni okubonakalayo. Ama-inorganic sunscreen asebenza ngokubuyisa noma ukusabalalisa imisebe ye-UV.
Ake sifunde ngokujulile ngabo:
Ama-sunscreen emvelo
Ama-sunscreen emvelo ayaziwa nangokuthiama-sunscreen amakhemikhaliLokhu kuqukethe ama-molecule e-organic (asekelwe ku-carbon) asebenza njengezivikelo zelanga ngokumunca imisebe ye-UV bese eyiguqula ibe amandla okushisa.
Amandla Nobuthakathaka Bezikrini Zelanga Zemvelo
| Amandla | Ubuthakathaka |
| Ubuhle bokubukeka – izihlungi eziningi eziphilayo, kungaba uketshezi noma izinto eziqinile ezincibilikayo, azishiyi nsalela ebonakalayo ebusweni besikhumba ngemva kokusetshenziswa kusuka ekwakhiweni | I-Narrow spectrum - eziningi zivikela kuphela ebangeni elincane lamaza |
| Izinto zemvelo zendabuko ziqondwa kahle ngabakhi bezinto | Kudingeka “ama-cocktail” ukuze uthole i-SPF ephezulu |
| Ukusebenza kahle kahle ekugxilweni okuphansi | Ezinye izinhlobo eziqinile zingaba nzima ukuzincibilikisa nokuzigcina esixazululweni |
| Imibuzo mayelana nokuphepha, ukucasuka kanye nomthelela emvelweni | |
| Ezinye izihlungi eziphilayo azizinzile ezithombeni |
Ukusetshenziswa kwe-Organic Sunscreens
Izihlungi ze-organic zingasetshenziswa ngokuyisisekelo kuyo yonke imikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kwelanga/yokuvikela i-UV kodwa kungenzeka zingabi zinhle emikhiqizweni yezingane noma yesikhumba esizwelayo ngenxa yokuthi kungenzeka kube nokusabela kokungezwani komzimba kubantu abazwelayo. Azifanele futhi imikhiqizo eyenza izimangalo "zemvelo" noma "ezingokwemvelo" njengoba zonke zingamakhemikhali okwenziwa.
Izihlungi ze-UV ze-Organic: Izinhlobo zamakhemikhali
I-PABA (i-para-amino benzoic acid) evela ku-
• Isibonelo: I-Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA
• Izihlungi ze-UVB
• Akuvamile ukusetshenziswa kulezi zinsuku ngenxa yokukhathazeka ngokuphepha
Ama-salicylates
• Izibonelo: I-Ethylhexyl Salicylate, i-Homosalate
• Izihlungi ze-UVB
• Izindleko eziphansi
• Ukusebenza kahle okuphansi uma kuqhathaniswa nezinye izihlungi eziningi
Ama-cinnamates
• Izibonelo: I-Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, i-Iso-amyl Methoxycinnamate, i-Octocrylene
• Izihlungi ze-UVB ezisebenza kahle kakhulu
• I-Octocrylene iyakwazi ukuthwetshulwa futhi isiza ekuzinziseni ezinye izihlungi ze-UV, kodwa ezinye izinhlayiya ze-cinnamate zivame ukuba nokungazinzi kahle kokuthwetshulwa
Ama-Benzophenones
• Izibonelo: I-Benzophenone-3, i-Benzophenone-4
• Nikeza kokubili ukumuncwa kwe-UVB kanye ne-UVA
• Ukusebenza kahle okuphansi kodwa kusiza ekukhuliseni i-SPF ngokuhlanganiswa nezinye izihlungi
• I-Benzophenone-3 ayisetshenziswa kakhulu eYurophu kulezi zinsuku ngenxa yokukhathazeka ngokuphepha
I-Triazine kanye ne-triazole derivatives
• Izibonelo: I-Ethylhexyl triazone, i-bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol I-Methoxyphenyl Triazine
• Isebenza kahle kakhulu
• Ezinye ziyizihlungi ze-UVB, ezinye zivikela nge-UVA/UVB nge-wide spectrum
• Ukuzinza okuhle kakhulu kwesithombe
• Kubiza kakhulu
Imikhiqizo ye-Dibenzoyl
• Izibonelo: I-Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDM), i-Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB)
• Izifutho ze-UVA ezisebenza kahle kakhulu
• I-BMDM ayinakho ukuzinza kahle kwesithombe, kodwa i-DHHB iyakwazi ukuthwebula izithombe kakhulu
I-Benzimidazole sulfonic acid derivatives
• Izibonelo: I-Phenylbenzimidazole I-Sulfonic Acid (PBSA), i-Disodium I-Phenyl Dibenzimidazole I-Tetrasulfonate (i-DPDT)
• Iyancibilika emanzini (uma incibilikiswa ngesisekelo esifanele)
• I-PBSA iyisihlungi se-UVB; i-DPDT iyisihlungi se-UVA
• Ngokuvamile kubonisa ukusebenzisana nezihlungi ezincibilika kumafutha uma zisetshenziswa ndawonye
Izinto ezithathwe ku-camphor
• Isibonelo: 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor
• Isihlungi se-UVB
• Akuvamile ukusetshenziswa kulezi zinsuku ngenxa yokukhathazeka ngokuphepha
Ama-anthranilates
• Isibonelo: I-Menthyl anthranilate
• Izihlungi ze-UVA
• Ukusebenza kahle okuphansi kakhulu
• Akuvunyelwe eYurophu
I-Polysilicone-15
• I-polymer ye-silicone enama-chromophores emaketangeni aseceleni
• Isihlungi se-UVB
Ama-sunscreen angaphili
Lezi zivikela-langa zaziwa nangokuthi izivikela-langa zomzimba. Lezi zakhiwe yizinhlayiya ezingaphili ezisebenza njengezivivikela-langa ngokumunca nokuhlakaza imisebe ye-UV. Izivikela-langa ezingaphili ziyatholakala njengempuphu eyomile noma ngaphambi kokuhlakazwa.
Ama-sunscreen angaphili Amandla Nobuthakathaka
| Amandla | Ubuthakathaka |
| Kuphephile / akucasuli | Umbono wobuhle obubi (ukuzizwa kwesikhumba kanye nokuba mhlophe esikhumbeni) |
| ububanzi obubanzi | Kungaba nzima ukwakha izimpushana ngazo |
| I-SPF ephezulu (30+) ingatholakala nge-active eyodwa (TiO2) | Izinto ezingaphili ziye zabanjwa empikiswaneni ye-nano |
| Ukuhlakazeka kulula ukukufaka | |
| I-Photostable |
Izicelo Zezikrini Zelanga Ezingaphili
Ama-sunscreen angaphili afaneleka kunoma yiziphi izinhlelo zokuvikela i-UV ngaphandle kwezakhi ezicacile noma izifutho ze-aerosol. Afaneleka kakhulu ekunakekelweni kwelanga kwengane, imikhiqizo yesikhumba ebucayi, imikhiqizo eyenza izimangalo "zemvelo", kanye nezimonyo zokuhlobisa.
Izihlungi ze-UV ezingaphili Izinhlobo zamakhemikhali
I-Titanium Dioxide
• Ngokuyinhloko isihlungi se-UVB, kodwa amanye amazinga nawo ahlinzeka ngokuvikelwa okuhle kwe-UVA
• Amabanga ahlukahlukene atholakala ngosayizi wezinhlayiya ezahlukene, ukumbozwa njll.
• Amamaki amaningi awela emkhakheni wezinhlayiya ezincane
• Izinhlayiya ezincane kakhulu zibonakala kakhulu esikhumbeni kodwa azinikezi ukuvikelwa kwe-UVA okuningi; izinhlayiya ezinkulu zinikeza ukuvikelwa okwengeziwe kwe-UVA kodwa zenza isikhumba sibe mhlophe kakhulu.
I-Zinc Oxide
• Ngokuyinhloko isihlungi se-UVA; ukusebenza kahle kwe-SPF okuphansi kune-TiO2, kodwa kunikeza isivikelo esingcono kune-TiO2 esifundeni se-“UVA-I” esinobude obude
• Amabanga ahlukahlukene atholakala ngosayizi wezinhlayiya ezahlukene, ukumbozwa njll.
• Amamaki amaningi awela emkhakheni wezinhlayiya ezincane
I-matrix yokusebenza / yeKhemistri
Izinga kusukela ku--5 kuya ku-+5:
-5: umphumela omubi obalulekile | 0: akukho mphumela | +5: umphumela omuhle obalulekile
(Qaphela: ngezindleko kanye nokwenza mhlophe, "umphumela omubi" usho ukuthi izindleko noma ukwenza mhlophe kuyanda.)
| Izindleko | I-SPF | I-UVA | Ukuzizwa Kwesikhumba | Ukumhlophe | Ukuzinza kwesithombe | Amanzi | |
| I-Benzophenone-3 | -2 | +4 | +2 | 0 | 0 | +3 | 0 |
| I-Benzophenone-4 | -2 | +2 | +2 | 0 | 0 | +3 | 0 |
| I-Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine | -4 | +5 | +5 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| I-Butyl Methoxy-dibenzoylmethane | -2 | +2 | +5 | 0 | 0 | -5 | 0 |
| I-Diethylamino Hydroxy Benzoyl Hexyl Benzoate | -4 | +1 | +5 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| I-Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone | -4 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| I-Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimiazole Tetrasulfonate | -4 | +3 | +5 | 0 | 0 | +3 | -2 |
| I-Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA | -1 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +2 | 0 |
| I-Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate | -2 | +4 | +1 | -1 | 0 | -3 | +1 |
| I-Ethylhexyl Salicylate | -1 | +1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +2 | 0 |
| I-Ethylhexyl Triazone | -3 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| I-Homosalate | -1 | +1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +2 | 0 |
| I-Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate | -3 | +4 | +1 | -1 | 0 | -2 | +1 |
| I-Menthyl Anthranilate | -3 | +1 | +2 | 0 | 0 | -1 | 0 |
| I-4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor | -3 | +3 | 0 | 0 | 0 | -1 | 0 |
| I-Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol | -5 | +4 | +5 | -1 | -2 | +4 | -1 |
| I-Octocrylene | -3 | +3 | +1 | -2 | 0 | +5 | 0 |
| I-Phenylbenzimidazole i-Sulfonic Acid | -2 | +4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | +3 | -2 |
| I-Polysilicone-15 | -4 | +1 | 0 | +1 | 0 | +3 | +2 |
| I-Tris-biphenyl Triazine | -5 | +5 | +3 | -1 | -2 | +3 | -1 |
| I-Titanium Dioxide – ibanga elibonakalayo | -3 | +5 | +2 | -1 | 0 | +4 | 0 |
| I-Titanium Dioxide – ibanga le-spectrum ebanzi | -3 | +5 | +4 | -2 | -3 | +4 | 0 |
| I-Zinc Oxide | -3 | +2 | +4 | -2 | -1 | +4 | 0 |
Izici Ezithinta Ukusebenza Kwezihlungi Ze-UV
Izici zokusebenza kwe-titanium dioxide kanye ne-zinc oxide ziyahlukahluka kakhulu kuye ngezakhiwo ngazinye zezinga elithile elisetshenzisiwe, isb. ukumbozwa, isimo somzimba (impuphu, ukuhlakazeka okusekelwe kumafutha, ukuhlakazeka okusekelwe emanzini).Abasebenzisi kufanele babonisane nabaphakeli ngaphambi kokukhetha ibanga elifanele kakhulu ukuze bahlangabezane nezinhloso zabo zokusebenza ohlelweni lwabo lokwakha.
Ukusebenza kahle kwezihlungi ze-UV ezincibilika kumafutha kuthonywa ukuncibilika kwazo kuma-emollients asetshenziswa ekwakhiweni. Ngokuvamile, ama-emollients e-polar ayizinyibilikisi ezinhle kakhulu zezihlungi ze-organic.
Ukusebenza kwazo zonke izihlungi ze-UV kuthonywa kakhulu ukuziphatha kwe-rheological kwale nqubo kanye nekhono layo lokwakha ifilimu elinganayo nehambisanayo esikhumbeni. Ukusetshenziswa kwezakhi zefilimu ezifanele kanye nezengezo ze-rheological kuvame ukusiza ekuthuthukiseni ukusebenza kahle kwezihlungi.
Inhlanganisela Ethakazelisayo Yezihlungi Ze-UV (ukuhlangana)
Kunezinhlanganisela eziningi zezihlungi ze-UV ezibonisa ukusebenzisana. Imiphumela emihle kakhulu yokusebenzisana ivame ukutholakala ngokuhlanganisa izihlungi ezihambisana ngandlela thile, isibonelo:-
• Ukuhlanganisa izihlungi ezincibilika kumafutha (noma ezihlakazekile kumafutha) nezihlungi ezincibilika emanzini (noma ezihlakazekile kumanzi)
• Ukuhlanganisa izihlungi ze-UVA nezihlungi ze-UVB
• Ukuhlanganisa izihlungi ezingaphili nezihlungi eziphilayo
Kukhona futhi izinhlanganisela ezithile ezingaletha ezinye izinzuzo, isibonelo kwaziwa kahle ukuthi i-octocrylene isiza ekuzinziseni izithombe zezihlungi ezithile ze-photo-labile njenge-butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.
Kodwa-ke umuntu kumele ahlale eqaphela impahla yobuhlakani kule ndawo. Kunezinhlobo eziningi zamalungelo obunikazi ezihlanganisa inhlanganisela ethile yezihlungi ze-UV futhi abenzi bezicelo bayalulekwa ukuthi bahlale behlola ukuthi inhlanganisela abahlose ukuyisebenzisa ayiphuli noma yimaphi amalungelo obunikazi avela eceleni.
Khetha isihlungi se-UV esifanele se-Cosmetic Formulation yakho
Izinyathelo ezilandelayo zizokusiza ukuthi ukhethe isihlungi se-UV esifanele sendlela yakho yokwenza izimonyo:
1. Beka imigomo ecacile yokusebenza, izakhiwo zobuhle kanye nezimangalo ezihlosiwe zalolu hlobo.
2. Hlola ukuthi yiziphi izihlungi ezivunyelwe emakethe ehlosiwe.
3. Uma une-chassis ethile yokwakheka ofisa ukuyisebenzisa, cabanga ukuthi yiziphi izihlungi ezizofanelana naleyo chassis. Kodwa-ke uma kungenzeka kungcono ukukhetha izihlungi kuqala bese uklama ukwakheka okuzungezile. Lokhu kuyiqiniso ikakhulukazi ngezihlungi ezingaphili noma ezi-organic.
4. Sebenzisa izeluleko ezivela kubaphakeli kanye/noma amathuluzi okubikezela njenge-BASF Sunscreen Simulator ukuze uthole inhlanganisela okufaneleukufeza i-SPF ehlosiwekanye nezinhloso ze-UVA.
Lezi zinhlanganisela zingase zizanywe ekwakhiweni. Izindlela zokuhlola ze-in-vitro SPF kanye ne-UVA ziwusizo kulesi sigaba ukukhombisa ukuthi yiziphi izinhlanganisela ezinikeza imiphumela emihle kakhulu maqondana nokusebenza - ulwazi olwengeziwe mayelana nokusetshenziswa, ukuchazwa kanye nemikhawulo yalezi zivivinyo lungaqoqwa ngenkambo yokuqeqeshwa kwe-e-SpecialChem:I-UVA/SPF: Ukuthuthukisa Amaphrothokholi Okuhlola Akho
Imiphumela yokuhlolwa, kanye nemiphumela yokuhlolwa okunye nokuhlolwa (isb. ukuqina, ukusebenza kahle kokulondoloza, umuzwa wesikhumba), kwenza i-formulator ikwazi ukukhetha inketho(izinketho) engcono kakhulu futhi iqondise ukuthuthukiswa okuqhubekayo kwe-formula(izindlela).
Isikhathi sokuthunyelwe: Jan-03-2021